The original plan was to hire a car with my family and explore Japan this way. However, since my family couldn’t make it in the end, we decided to travel by train instead. And honestly, travelling through Japan by train became such a beautiful part of the whole experience.
We booked the world-famous Shinkansen to get from Tokyo towards Takayama, which is a popular and very scenic route. As expected in Japan, the trains were incredibly punctual, super clean and very quiet inside the carriage. It was such a comfortable way to travel. We could simply sit back, enjoy the scenery passing by, and snack on our bento boxes, which we bought just before boarding the train. I loved this little part of Japanese travel culture, choosing a delicious lunch box at the station and then enjoying it while watching the countryside, mountains and small towns pass by outside the window.
We arrived in Takayama in the afternoon and walked to our hotel, as it was within easy walking distance from the station. The hotel was beautiful and right in the centre, which made everything so easy to access. Our room was lovely and had everything we needed, including kimonos to wear when going to the spa area.
One of the reasons we booked this hotel was because it had a beautiful rooftop onsen overlooking the city. What made it special was that there was a shared spa area with a hot pool and sauna, as well as separate onsens for men and women. We made the most of it, especially at night. Sitting in the warm water, looking over the city lights with the mountains in the background, was such a peaceful experience. After busy Tokyo, this felt like exactly what we needed.
Takayama itself was such a lovely change of pace. It is much smaller and quieter than Tokyo, surrounded by mountains, and has a really charming, traditional feel. We explored the city by foot every day, and it was so nice just strolling through the narrow streets, discovering small restaurants, little shops, cafes and local food stalls.
I definitely recommend spending time in Takayama’s Old Town, also known as Sanmachi. This area is full of beautifully preserved traditional wooden houses, many of them now turned into shops, sake breweries, cafes and small museums. The whole area feels like stepping back in time. You can wander along the streets, look into the small craft shops, try local snacks, or stop for a coffee and simply enjoy the atmosphere. We had a very insightful chat with a cafe owner at a small family run cafe. It’s connecting with the locals that makes a difference…
Takayama is also known for Hida beef, so if you enjoy good food, this is definitely something to try. We saw Hida beef skewers, sushi-style beef, croquettes and many other little treats while walking around. I loved how easy it was to just stroll, taste different things and take everything in slowly.
Another lovely part of Takayama was walking along the riverside and visiting the morning market. It was peaceful, with small stalls selling local produce, snacks and handmade goods. We also enjoyed watching the fish in the river, which sounds simple, but those are often the little moments you remember most from a trip.
We also went for a walk in the park, but be aware – there are signs warning that bears have been seen in the area! That definitely made the walk feel a little more adventurous. From the top, you get beautiful views of the mountains in the distance, and it was well worth the walk.
From Takayama, we took the bus for a day trip to Shirakawa-go, and this was one of the most magical places we visited in Japan. The bus ride itself was easy and scenic, taking us deeper into the mountains.
Shirakawa-go feels like a fairytale village. It is famous for its traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, which have very steep thatched roofs designed to withstand heavy snow in winter. Some of these houses are hundreds of years old, and the whole village feels like an open-air museum. But what makes it even more special is that people still live there, so it does not feel like a fake tourist attraction. It feels real, peaceful and full of history.
We spent the day slowly walking around the village, crossing little bridges, admiring the old farmhouses and enjoying the quiet mountain scenery. The houses are so unique and beautiful, especially with the mountains around them. I can only imagine how magical this place must look in winter when everything is covered in snow.
We also stopped for coffee and enjoyed the tranquillity of the village. There was something so calming about sitting there, surrounded by traditional houses, rice fields and mountains. It felt like time had slowed down for a moment.
For lunch, we had the best curry in a lovely little restaurant. The waitress was so kind that she even refilled our plates without us asking. This is Japan – thoughtful, kind and full of small gestures that make you smile.
Takayama and Shirakawa-go were such a beautiful contrast to Tokyo. Tokyo was exciting, modern and full of energy, while Takayama and Shirakawa-go showed us a quieter, more traditional side of Japan. It was exactly the kind of place where you can slow down, enjoy the scenery, eat amazing food and appreciate the beauty of old Japan.
If you are travelling through Japan and want to experience something beyond the big cities, I can highly recommend adding Takayama and Shirakawa-go to your itinerary. For us, it was one of the highlights of the trip.